I believe the swell peaked at about 10' at 19 seconds. Offshore buoys were reading way bigger. This reef is about a mile offshore.
30 November 2015
17 November 2015
“For those who believe in God, most of the big questions are answered. But for those of us who can't readily accept the God formula, the big answers don't remain stone-written. We adjust to new conditions and discoveries. We are pliable. Love need not be a command nor faith a dictum. I am my own god. We are here to unlearn the teachings of the church, state, and our educational system. We are here to drink beer. We are here to kill war. We are here to laugh at the odds and live our lives so well that Death will tremble to take us.”
15 November 2015
the common ground that all humans walk upon
a well-trod path
but easy to follow, if you pay attention
like an ancient lay-line
that leads to ultimate truths
that you’ll see, no matter how dark
unless you are distracted by specifics
due to your subscription to labels
when your ism is more valuable than the lives of fellow travelers
you will stray
many will die
and no one will win
04 November 2015
03 November 2015
02 November 2015
31 October 2015
In 1963 my dear old Auntie Larry went deep undercover with the Hell Surfers of Leech Lane on Oregon's North Coast. Consider, that this was three years before Hunter S Thompson published his notorious Hells Angel's expose. Students of 60s radical journalism now posit that HST never actually met a Hell's Angel at all and his book was a merely a sad attempt to emerge from beneath Auntie Larry's literay shadow.
If you don't believe me consider this quote from Larry's "Hell Surfers: A weirdo gang of thrill-seekers on a sin and crime rampage."
It had been a bad trip ... fast and wild in some moments, slow and dirty in others, but on balance it looked like a bummer. On my way back to Portland, I tried to compose a fitting epitaph. I wanted something original, but there was no escaping the echo of Mistah Kurtz' final words from the heart of darkness: "The horror! The horror! ... Exterminate all the brutes!"